Welcome to the Kinabatangan river
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At 560km long, the Kinabatangan River is the largest and longest river in the Malaysian state of Sabah and the second-longest in Malaysia. Running from the central mountains in the interior of Sabah to the Sulu Sea to the East of Sandakan, the Kinabatangan River covers almost 23 per cent of the total land area of Sabah.
The river was an early focal point for trading in Sabah, helping to export the vast riches from the Interior of Sabah out to the sea and over to China. Better known now for its impressive biodiversity and ecological significance, the Kinabatangan River attracts visitors from all over the world hoping for a glimpse of Borneo’s "Big Five”, namely the Bornean orang-utan, proboscis monkey, Bornean pygmy elephant, saltwater crocodile and rhinoceros hornbill. Read on to find out more about the history of the Kinabatangan river and its inhabitants. |
A brief history of the Kinabatangan river
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Chinese traders may have arrived in the Kinabatangan region as early as 631AD but the true trading years began in the 16th century with exports of edible bird's nest, rhinoceros horns, elephant ivory, hornbill casques, hardwood resin, flexible rattan vines, beeswax, fragrant wood and oil rich illipe nuts flowing down the river and over to China. Exports continued during the British colonial era in the 19th century when the river and its tributaries were important for transporting goods, including timber, rubber, and other agricultural products, from the interior to the coast.
After World War II, the Kinabatangan River continued to be an important transportation route, but it also became a focal point for industrialization. Logging peaked in the 1980’s leaving in its wake bare land ready to be cultivated, leading to the emergence and rapid development of palm oil plantations and other commercial crops from the late 1980’s until conservation efforts began 20 years later. |
In recent decades, the Kinabatangan River has become an important center for ecotourism, largely because of its diverse and unique wildlife. The river is surrounded by several protected areas, such as the Kinabatangan Wildlife Sanctuary, which helps to preserve the rich biodiversity of this area.
People of the Kinabatangan river
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The Orang Sungai (“People of the River”) settled along Sabah’s river systems centuries ago, drawn by the abundant natural resources provided by the rivers and surrounding forests. Living in stilted houses along the riverbanks, they practiced small-scale agriculture, fishing and gathered produce from the surrounding forests which could then be bartered with traders who sailed on the river. Rattan, resin, bird’s nests and medicinal plants were traded in exchange for salt, metal tools, and textiles. 4 main villages remain along the Kinabatangan River, Batu Puteh, Bilit, Sukau and Abai with many smaller communities and villages in between.
Hornbill lodge is located in Bilit village the second largest of these 4 settlements. |
Community spirit
Orang Sungai communities are organised into villages with strong social ties among residents. Families often live in extended family units, where multiple generations share a single or neighbouring households and work together in farming, building homes, or celebrating cultural and religious events. This collective spirit is known today as gotong-royong ("mutual cooperation"). The Ketua Kampung ("Head of the Village") is the traditional leader, responsible for the well-being and governance of the village.
The communities along the Kinabatangan river gather for feasts and cultural performances to mark events such as Ramadan, Hari Raya, the fishing seasons and weddings. Traditional musical instruments like the gong and kulintangan (a set of small, knobbed gongs) and traditional dances are commonly used during these ceremonies and celebrations. The Orang Sungai’s songs and dances bear witness to their deep connexion with their environment, telling stories of their relationship with the river and forest.
The communities along the Kinabatangan river gather for feasts and cultural performances to mark events such as Ramadan, Hari Raya, the fishing seasons and weddings. Traditional musical instruments like the gong and kulintangan (a set of small, knobbed gongs) and traditional dances are commonly used during these ceremonies and celebrations. The Orang Sungai’s songs and dances bear witness to their deep connexion with their environment, telling stories of their relationship with the river and forest.
Skilled artisans
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Skilled artisans, the Orang Sungai have long been crafting items like mats, baskets, and tools using natural materials such as rattan and bamboo. They have developed ingenious fishing methods that are both sustainable and efficient, such as cast nets, trammel nets and traditional traps specifically designed to catch fish and prawns without damaging the river ecosystem.
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Spiritual beliefs
Their spiritual beliefs historically included animism : they believed that the natural world, including the river, forests, and wildlife, is inhabited by spirits. They have sacred sites that can be specific trees or rocks that host spirits (hantu or penunggu). Rituals were performed to honour these spirits, often involving food, incense, or symbolic items, this was especially common during significant events like fishing, hunting, or harvesting.
"Shamans", or bomoh, played a crucial role in the community as mediators between humans and the spirit world. They healed illnesses, warded off bad spirits, or interpreted omens. Their traditional healing involved the use of plants and herbs, often combined with spiritual invocations. Certain animal behaviors were interpreted as omens : the call of some birds might signal good or bad luck. Dreams were also seen as messages from the spirit world, providing guidance or warnings.
Nowadays, the majority of Orang Sungai have converted to Islam, which now shapes much of their cultural and social practices. However, beliefs still influence their cultural identity : certain taboos or respect for sacred natural sites continue to influence behavior ; births, marriages, and deaths are marked by specific ceremonies that may combine Islamic rituals with traditional customs, creating a unique blend of old and new beliefs and practices.
"Shamans", or bomoh, played a crucial role in the community as mediators between humans and the spirit world. They healed illnesses, warded off bad spirits, or interpreted omens. Their traditional healing involved the use of plants and herbs, often combined with spiritual invocations. Certain animal behaviors were interpreted as omens : the call of some birds might signal good or bad luck. Dreams were also seen as messages from the spirit world, providing guidance or warnings.
Nowadays, the majority of Orang Sungai have converted to Islam, which now shapes much of their cultural and social practices. However, beliefs still influence their cultural identity : certain taboos or respect for sacred natural sites continue to influence behavior ; births, marriages, and deaths are marked by specific ceremonies that may combine Islamic rituals with traditional customs, creating a unique blend of old and new beliefs and practices.
Ancient burials
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Another group belonging to the same family as the Orang Sungai is the Ida’an, who live along Sabah’s East coast and converted to Islam as far back as the 15th century. In the past, both the Orang Sungai and the Ida’an practiced cave burials, and it is still possible to see the remains of wooden coffins and burial urns in some of the caves and rocky overhangs along Sabah’s east coast, including in the Kinabatangan and Danum Valley regions.
The museum Agop Batu Tulug, approximately 50km from Hornbill Lodge is an ancient, isolated limestone hill that houses over 125 wooden coffins dating back some 500 to 900 years ago. |
